Chez la Vieille

Push open the door at 60 rue de Gand. The light is low, the walls are covered in enamel advertising signs and frames right up to the ceiling, the crockery does not match and nobody minds. It is an estaminet the way we like them in Vieux-Lille: warm, simple, relaxed.

People come as a couple, as a family or with friends. The tables are close together, the atmosphere is Flemish, and it is not unusual to leave having swapped a few words with your neighbours.

In fine weather, the inner courtyard becomes a private terrace: a few quiet tables, sheltered from the street.

The menu is that of a Flemish estaminet, generous and straightforward. The carbonade simmers in beer, with gingerbread and brown vergeoise sugar. The potjevleesch, white meats in a vinegar jelly, is served cold. The welsh with Maroilles arrives browned from the oven, on its slice of beer-soaked bread.

And there is the dish that bears the name of the house. The gratin de la Vieille is a chicon gratin: Belgian endives, ham and béchamel, browned in the oven with Maroilles.

Most dishes are served with fresh fries from the region and salad. To try a bit of everything, the regional platter brings together carbonade, potjevleesch, Maroilles croquette and welsh. The croquettes and the Maroilles tart are vegetarian.

Finish with a speculoos merveille, a brioche perdue or a flamanderole, and have a regional beer with your meal, on draught or in the bottle.

Booking is done online, in a few seconds, or by phone. In the evening, when the room is full, the house runs two sittings: booking remains the safest option, especially at weekends and in December.

Families are welcome, and old wooden games are available on the tables.

The house takes bank cards, cash and meal vouchers.

For a group, two rooms can be booked, up to seventy-five people in all.